Costanera Norte

It’s said that Buenos Aires was built with its back to the Río de la Plata, but the exception is the riverside strip of Costanera Norte, where a promenade borders the choppy brown waters. By day, the drone of engines and the smell of jet fuel fill the air above this strip of land along the river: Aeroparque Jorge Newbery, the hub for domestic flights, is here. Wishful fishermen often cast a line from the wide waterfront promenade, but a steak or chorizo sandwich from the many carritos (food stands) is a surer meal ticket. At night, the soundtrack is pounding beats and guitar riffs coming from long-standing dance clubs. Respectful silence reigns a little farther north at the haunting Parque de la Memoria, a monument to victims of Argentina’s last dictatorship.


Parque de la Memoria

Between 1969 and 1983, 30,000 civilians were illegally detained, tortured, and "disappeared" in Argentina by the military dictatorship and the…

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